Milan in a Nutshell

Location: Lombardy, Italy / Lombardia, Italia

Best known for: Duomo di Milano, high fashion capital

Days needed to explore: 2+ Milan is large and busy, with many things to see and do. You could see the most important things in just a day or two, but to really relax and enjoy Milan, a few days or more would be needed to more fully take it in.

Established: Milan was first inhabited by a Celtic group in the 500’s BC. It was then taken over by the Romans, and subsequently associated with 25 different names until it became a part of the Republic of Italy in 1946. Milan is an important city in Italy, the EU and beyond, becoming the financial and fashion capital of Italy from the 20th century onwards.

What to see and do:

• Duomo di Milano - the stunningly intricate Gothic masterpiece of a cathedral

• The Last Supper (Cenacolo) by Leonardo da Vinci - Find the original masterpiece in the refectory of the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie. You’ll want to plan accordingly and purchase tickets ahead of time. Viewings of the painting are in small groups and for 15 minutes.

• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - an architecturally captivating shopping center, home to some of fashion’s big names, as well as esteemed cafés and restaurants. Whether you enjoy shopping or not, this is a beautiful one to walk through

• Teatro alla Scala - A world renowned opera house built in the 1700’s. In order to see the inside you can either purchase a ticket for the museo teatrale alla scala (opera museum) which includes the theatre in its tour, or, purchase an opera or ballet ticket much in advance for the real experience. I’ve never had the opportunity to see a ballet here, but I associate La Scala very much with Alessandra Ferri, an Italian prima ballerina who was very inspirational in my young life and used to perform there regularly.

• Castello Sforzesco - also known as Sforza Castle, this large walled castle structure was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. It was built in the 15th century and later enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries. It is now home to some of Milan’s museums and art collections, even Leonardo DaVinci lived here for a spell!

• Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero - a church nicknamed the “Sistine Chapel” of Milan that often surprises with its beautiful and intricate frescoes. It’s not as well known as some other must-sees around Milan, but then again, it’s hard being a church in the same city as the Duomo di Milano, no?

• Cimitero Monumentale di Milano - A large and statue-laden cemetery. This is not your run of the mill cemetery, but one that used to be reserved for Milan’s most important people, filled with statues, obelisks, and even a bronze statue remake of “The Last Supper”.

• I Navigli - a quaint neighborhood that runs along the two principal canals, the remainder of man-made navigable canals with touches added even by Leonardo da Vinci. The Grand Canal even used to connect Milan to Switzerland! Come here for smaller, artisan shops and good dining.

• Arco della Pace - an arch that resembles Paris’ arch (Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel) in the Jardin de Tuileries, built by request of Napoleon Bonaparte

• Parco Sempione - The largest park in Milan. On one end you have the Arco della Pace and the other Castello Sforzesca

• Biblioteca Ambrosiana - a 17th century library with an impressive art collection, including da Vinci’s “Codex Atlanticus”, as well as works from the likes of Caravaggio and Raphael.

• Quartiere di Brera - known as the elegant and artsy neighborhood in the centro storico to the north of the duomo, Brera is good for strolling and exploring. Find here the Pinacoteca di Brera gallery with its impressive collection of art.

Typical foods to try:

• Mondeghili - beef meatballs made with sausage, mortadella, cheese, garlic, and nutmeg, usually served as an antipasto.

• Risotto alla Milanese - risotto made with plenty of butter and cheese, flavored with beef marrow and saffron. If there is one standout dish to try amongst the typical Milanese dishes, this would be it.

• Ossobuco alla Milanese - veal shank in a savory tomato and white wine sauce. Often served with risotto alla Milanese.

• Cotoletta alla Milanese / Veal Milanese - a choice cutlet of veal typically with the bone in and visible, breaded in egg and breadcrumbs, fried in clarified butter.

• Casseoula - a hearty winter casserole dish made up of the “poor man’s” pork cuts, savoy cabbage, and other vegetables.

• Panettone - Italian sweet Christmas bread often made with candied fruits, traditional in the Milan area. I adore panettone, if you find yourself in Milan, go ahead and order yourself an extra piece for me!

• Negroni sbagliato - like a traditional Negroni made up of equal parts gin, Campari, sweet vermouth but “mistaken”ly use Prosecco in place of the gin. This drink can be tried at the bar where it was first inadvertently invented, Bar Basso.

Where to Eat:

• Pavé - coffee bar

• Il Signor Lievito - go for the pastries: cinnamon rolls, chocolate babka, etc.

• L’Antico Trattoria della Pesa - a historical place to eat, established in 1880. A good place to order the Risotto alla Milanese!

Why I like Milano

If I’m going to be really honest, Milano has never been at the top of my list to visit. I did not include it in my first nor second itinerary when visiting Italy, and really only took the opportunity to go when I found a cheaper flight to Milan than to Rome. A friend met me, I stored my luggage, and we walked around Milan for several hours before catching a train back to Florence. I saw what I wanted to see and was satisfied. I have no immediate plans to go back, as walking around confirmed that Milan is largely as I expected. Don’t get me wrong, I’d love to go back and explore further, plus being such a large city, I’m probably not giving it enough credit. Large, bustling fashion cities are some people’s cup of tea, but I’d rather explore smaller or more intimate places. That’s the small town girl in me talking. Milan, a bit like Rome, has that big city feeling to it. There are times you completely forget you’re in a foreign country and not just Chicago or NYC. Italy has so much to offer, you can definitely be choosy. If you do get a chance to go to Milan, do go to see the Duomo. It is simply breathtaking. A quick trip or extended layover is worth it to see that alone. It really is the gem of Milan. What it boils down to is, if you have a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Italy, skip Milan. If you visit Italy more than once or especially regularly, then give Milan some time to dive in and explore its unique self.