Food in Florence: Where to Find the Best Eats
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Choosing where to eat in a new city is always one of the hardest decisions. Especially if that city is half way across the world and you don’t get over there every day.
This is important because I essentially love traveling for two principle reasons: The culture and the food. But how to find, say, good Belgian waffles and frites in Bruges, Belgium, or croissants and baguettes in Paris, France, or pizza and mozzarella di bufala in Napoli, Italy, when most of the places you see are screaming “tourist trap!”?
Unless you are fortunate enough to know some locals, you are completely left to yourselves, aside, of course, from the hundreds of books and online guides touting the 10 best places to eat. The overwhelming part for me is weighing through the endless sites and opinions, some of which are good, and an amazing number of which are not at all reliable. So here I’m just going to throw myself in the mix, as a local in Florence, with some of my favorite places to eat, namely lunch and dinner!
Lunch and Dinner in Italy
First, a few quick notes about lunch and dinner in Italy.
Sit-down lunchtime is roughly from 12:00pm - 3:00pm, with the peak being 1:00pm - 2:00pm. If you go before or after these hours, chances are the restaurant will be closed or not serving lunch anymore.
If you find yourself in need of a snack before lunchtime hits, pop into any bar and pick up a quick sandwich. If I eat a late breakfast at a bar I often notice quite a few local workers who pop in for a sandwich starting as early as 10:00am. These sandwiches are pre-made (but should be made that same day!) in the display case and slowly replace the pastries as the morning wears on. You can get a large or small, and they are usually simple with just 2-3 ingredients on a focaccia type bread. You could try a mozzarella, tomato, and lettuce, or prosciutto and tomato, or mortadella (Italian equivalent of bologna) and cheese, or bresaola (prosciutto made with beef instead of pork), arugula, and grana padano, etc.
Dinnertime in Italy generally starts from 7:30pm and can linger on until 11 or later, especially in the summer when that is when it finally cools down. Most restaurants don’t even open until 7:30pm for the dinner shift. It’s rare to find a restaurant that doesn’t close between the lunch and dinner shifts, as you’ll be able to see from the opening hours below.
Remember, if you sit down in a restaurant there will almost always be a “coperto” or cover charge, usually about 1.50 - 2euro per person, which cover the cost of napkins, bread, etc. And you have to pay for water, even if it’s tap water that comes in a refillable bottle. For more dining and Italy tips take a look at this list.
Hours may vary. You can make reservations on quandoo.it or thefork.it or by calling the restaurant directly.
Where to Find the Best Eats
In no particular order
Simbiosi Organic
Via de’ Ginori, 56r, 58r/60r (two locations), near to San Lorenzo.
Simbiosi has two different locations around the corner from each other. The original location is an organic pizzeria, with great decor: exposed bricks and chandeliers! The second location features organic pasta and other dishes, and both locations have a nice selection of organic beer and wine. Oh, and the food is really good, especially the pizza. They appreciate reservations.
Osteria Cinghiale Bianco
Borgo San Jacop, 43, just a bit away from the Santa Trinita bridge in a lovely neighborhood south of the center.
Lovely local place with delicious typical Tuscan food and wine, housed in the bottom of a tower from 300 a.d.! I would highly recommend reservations, even if during the “off” season (which hardly seems to exist in Florence anymore) or you may not get in.
Enoteca Fuori Porta
Via del Monte alle Croci, 10, on the way to Piazzale Michelangelo.
This is a cute little wine shop with great meat and cheese plates and, of course, wine. Great for a snack, a light meal, or just a drink. Indoor and outdoor seating and conveniently located on the way to Piazzale Michelangelo (a nice uphill hike to get the views) for a snack after all that exertion. ;)
All’antico Vinaio
Via dei Neri, 76, between Palazzo Vecchio and the church of Santa Croce.
This is the most famous sandwich place in Florence, and have had lines since the first time I went in 2014. They have since expanded to at least 3 locations all on the same street near each other, two for sandwiches and one Osteria. I recommend going before or after prime lunch time to avoid the long lines; I’ve never been for dinner so can’t vouch for what the lines are like. Take your sandwich to go and sit on the steps of a church or piazza to enjoy your food. Keep in mind that if you don’t eat or don’t like pork, your pickings will be slim. They usually have turkey, sometimes bresaola (the beef equivalent of prosciutto), or you could always get some of the vegetable toppings with cheese and call it a day if you’re vegetarian.
Antica Panineria
Via Faenza, 53. Between the train station and San Lorenzo.
Another delicious and cheap focaccia sandwich place. Located not too far from the train station, this makes for a convenient lunch on the train, or there is a nice area outside to sit! Unlike All’Antico Vinaio here there are is usually no or a very short line which is convenient for a quicker meal.
Gustapizza
Via Maggio, 46r, south of the river.
Decent prices and just really good pizza. This is considered by some the best pizza in Florence. In my personal opinion, as they’ve become well known and busy, their quality control has dropped a bit. Obviously, they still made this list, but maybe instead of THE best they are one of the best. How’s that? They’re small and often full but even if Italy doesn’t have much of a “to go” culture, pizza is always acceptable to get to go. In fact, if they’re full up, take your pizza a few steps away and sit and eat on the steps of the church of Santo Spirito or in the piazza.
Mercato Centrale
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Via dell’Ariento, near to the church of San Lorenzo
On the second floor is the Italian style food court, except everything is made fresh and on the spot. This is great for larger groups because there is something to please everyone, but be warned, it can get crazy up here even if there are hundreds of tables; it’s popular! So aim for a bit before or after lunch or dinner, if you can. There’s pasta, pizza, sushi, hamburgers, steak, vegan, seafood, various typical Florentine options, and more. My only word of warning is that not every stall is made equally. I personally recommend the pizza (that fluffy Neopolitan crust, oh man!), the seafood fresh or fried, the famous Florentine steak (bistecca fiorentina, one of the best), gelato, bread or desserts from the French stall “Bedu,” and vegan. They also have large TVs setup so you can watch the soccer matches, although that also means many seats will be occupied by people who aren’t even eating during those times. Rude. ;)
Da Nerbone
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, near to the church of San Lorenzo
This is a very busy, very delicious, traditional Tuscan food stand on the ground floor of the Mercato Centrale among all the farmer’s market stands. They usually have a long line but it moves fast enough. The hard part is getting a seat, so have someone ordering and picking up the food, another scouting and claiming a table! The seating is quite tight but for a taste of scrumptious Florentine comfort food, it’s worth it. I love the Lampredotto (very typical Florentine, I’m gonna go ahead and let you google that one), any of the pasta dishes, and the beef cheek called “stracotto.” And I don’t even hardly eat beef! Comfort food at it’s greatest.
Pizzeria Orto del Cigno
Via di Varlungo, 27, on the east side of the city center not far from Tuscany Hall.
A pizzeria that feels like home, because they serve large pizzas that everyone can eat a slice from American style, instead of the individual pizzas. You can get each pizza with 2 or 3 of the topping options, so you can try more! I absolutely fell in love with the parmigiana…definitely one of the top 5 pizzas I’ve ever eaten!
I recommend taking a stroll from the city center along the river going east, the sidewalk eventually turns into a peaceful reprieve from the touristy center, with nature and the river on your right and locals jogging past. About a 45 minute walk and the pizzeria will be on your left.
Aji Tei
Viale Spartaco Lavagnini, 20A, not far from the tip of the city center, Piazza Libertà.
My favorite sushi in Florence, and that’s saying something because there are a ton of Japanese restaurants around. I know of very few sushi places in Italy that are not the “all you can eat” formula, but have you ever not wanted to eat all you can of sushi? Their menu is extensive (sushi, sashimi, special rolls, fried stuff, hot and cold plates) and the “all you can eat” includes everythinggggg except drinks, I think it even includes dessert. The price is higher, 29euro a head for dinner, but if you break down how many rolls of sushi I can consume, it turns out to be a pretty good deal. Unlike some sushi places, their price is the same for lunch and dinner. Oh, and the ambience is super cool. I recommend asking to eat in the garden if there is space. Even in the off season this place fills up quickly so I recommend making a reservation.
Ristorante Giapponese Rakutei
Via della Casaccia, 19-21-23, on the east side of the city center.
I just mentioned my favorite sushi above, but this place is also really good and much more conveniently located for where I live, and also for those of you who are staying on the east side of town or at the campground. “All you can eat” once again! Take bus 14 to get here and get off at the “casaccia” bus stop. Their prices are a bit lower, and you can take advantage of the lunch hour and pay 14euro for all you can eat, otherwise it’s 24euro drinks excluded for dinner.
PassaGuai
Borgo San Frediano, 44r, on the south side of the river near to the church of Santo Spirito.
This was one of the favorite places my family ate at during our vacation here in 2014, a cool little spot with absolutely delicious sandwiches for 4euro. It’s now evolved into a restaurant with an emphasis on meat and fish, but still the same owners and quality food.
Le Sorgenti
Via Chiara, 6r, right by the Mercato Centrale.
One of my favorite Chinese places, although there are so many and quite a few of them are delicious! Order lots of small plates and share, they’re reasonably priced. I recommend the taglierini alla griglia (basically grilled lo mein) and the branzino alla griglia (grilled sea bass). YUM.
Los Chicos
Via dei Benci, 15r, near to the church of Santa Croce.
Florence has a sadly lacking Mexican food scene. This place, however, can get a you a nice burrito or taco! The tacos are 3euro each, and you can get a burrito starting at 5euro. Choose your protein then add all the condiments and veggies you like. Oh, and don’t forget margaritas!
Ararat Ristorante Armeno
Borgo la Croce, 32r, near to Sant’Ambrogio on the east side of the center.
I had never had Armenian food until I ate here, but I can now say I’m a fan! Their food is well-executed with lots of meat and vegetables. The flatbread is DELICIOUS. It’s also a really pretty place, golden silverware, anyone?
Avanti - Pizza & Grill - Ristorante Arabo
Via S. Pier Maggiore, 6r, close to the Santa Maria Nuova hospital.
The menu is a mix of pizza and Iraqi food, and although I can’t speak for the pizza, I haven’t eaten anything short of scrumptious from the Iraqi section. And why would you need a pizza if you have such Arab goodness in front of you?
Rosticceria Tavola Marrochina
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 11, directly opposite the Mercato Centrale on the parking lot side. Beware of the pinpoint on google maps because it isn’t on the right street, even if the address itself seems to be correct.
This is a little hole in the wall restaurant owned and run by a Moroccan family. The seating can be a bit tight and the ambiance not the best, but the food is delicious and the prices decent. In short, this is not the place to bring to impress, but if you’re familiar with Morocco and wanting a taste, this is a great casual place to go. Lunchtime is best, as the options get slimmer the longer the evening wears on. My favorites are couscous (of course, and you can get a “small” plate for around 4euro), the harira soup, msemmen (thin, crispy bread often filled with cheese, harissa, and boiled eggs or cheese and honey), and the mint tea.
Foody Farm
Lungargno Corsini, 2A, on the river not far from Palazzo Strozzi.
When Foody Farm first opened I didn’t care to go just because of the name…too many cliché ideas in a title for me. Then they moved to their current location on the Arno and by then I had heard enough good things to want to go. When I finally went the old saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind. The service was friendly and the menu fun. They offer both a normal menu and one made up of pictures so you can see what each dish looks like. Their wine menu was made up of a collage of wine labels so they are more easily recognizable. What’s more, most of their menu is able to be ordered in half or full portions, so everyone can easily order two dishes getting to try more! I loved the whole experience and thought the food was delicious and creatively served.
Pizzeria La Luna
Via Vincenzo Gioberti, 93r, just outside the city center near to Piazza Beccaria
A delightful pizza place I stumbled upon by accident one night when I was far from home but needing nourishment. Although I have passed this pizzeria many, many times, it never struck me as a “must try” and I was pleasantly surprised when the pizza was absolutely delicious. I’ve only ever gotten the pizza to go, but it seems to get pretty busy so if you’d like to sit down I would go with a reservation! They offer gluten-free pizza.
Le Follie di Romualdo
Via di San Niccolò, 39r, south of the city center on the way to Piazzale Michelangelo.Romualdo is a well-known “pizzaiuolo” (pizza maker) around Florence and beyond, his being named among the top 20 best pizzas in the world by the New York Times and has received twice the highest acknowledgment from the best pizza guide Pizzerie D’Italia del Gambero Rosso. All that to say, you’ll eat some really, really good pizza here. The other food is good, too! During the summer he has a popup pizza place near the river. This location is on the newer side, the location where I was introduced to Romualdo’s was further away from the center, much bigger, and always bustling. I liked the old location better even if the new location is nice and easier to get to; their menu seemed to shrink and it was emptier. To be fair, I’ve only been to the new location once and that was towards the end of October, the pizza was still delicious and the wines great.
Koto Ramen
Via Giuseppe Verdi, 42r, close to Santa Croce, and Borgo San Frediano, 41r, not far from the Ponte alla Carraia.
If you’re craving some good ramen this is a good place to come! The menu is not overly extensive, but what they do, they do well with fresh ingredients and vibrant flavors. They have some good gyoza and appetizers, really all you need to supplement a large bowl of ramen.
Now I’m hungry…ah well off to eat some homemade vegan sloppy joes, it’ll be just as good. I hope.
More Ideas
This is a list of places that I would like to try one day, either that I’ve heard good things about or they just looked really interesting walking by! If you try any of them before me, let me know in the comments below how you liked it!
Adagio
Cacio Vino Trallalla
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
Ristorante Sultan (Turkish food)
Royal India (Indian food)
Where are your favorite places to eat around Florence, what have I missed? Have you tried any of the places on here? Tell me about it in the comments below! I always love hearing your thoughts and experiences!
