Sourdough Tools: The Essentials for Beginners

What are the tools you need to get started making your own sourdough bread at home?

Not much, honestly! Part of the beauty of sourdough is its simplicity. It’s extremely simple to make, needing only flour, water, salt, and some sourdough starter (which itself is made from just water and flour). There are many, many factors that will affect your bread, which is where it can get complicated and scientific, but it is a beautiful and addicting process that I hope you embark on and enjoy!

If you’re brand new to sourdough, maybe you’ve never made a loaf before or not even entirely sure what it is, I’ll walk you through what you need to get started. As already stated above, you probably already have everything!

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Sourdough Ingredients:

  • Flour - either all-purpose flour or bread flour. Small percentages of whole wheat and other types of flour can be added in, as desired. For the sake of simplicity, it’s nice to start out with 1 - 2 flours.

  • Water - sourdough likes spring water, filtered purified water, bottled water…it doesn’t do as well on distilled water, tap water that has been treated, or hard water.

  • Salt

  • Sourdough starter - you can purchase one, find a friend who will share with you, or start your own. Soon I’ll put up a little guide to starting your own starter. It’s very simple, but sometimes can require a little troubleshooting. You only need flour and water.

Sourdough Tools

Getting Started

To make a basic loaf of sourdough bread, you’ll need:

Simple, right? With these things, you can make sourdough bread. It is more than possible, and a good place to start before investing in more tools. It may not be the perfect loaves you see in bakeries or in pictures, but even if you start with allll the tools, your first loaves probably wouldn’t be perfect anyway.

*It IS possible to make sourdough without a scale or Dutch oven. However, the vast majority of recipes are by weight, as this is key to understanding sourdough. So while there are a few kind souls out there who have shared sourdough recipes that include weight and cups/teaspoon measurements, it is really worth getting a scale. You can find inexpensive ones for less than $15. Same goes for a dutch oven. Starting without one may offer more discouraging results than encouraging. Yes, you definitely can bake sourdough straight on a pizza stone, baking steel, or even a cookie sheet, but it’s trickier to get the proper amount of steam for optimal bread when you open bake like this. Starting with a dutch oven eliminates one more variable you may have to work with.

Not to mention, with both a scale and dutch oven, they are multi-purpose. Even if you don’t continue with sourdough bread, scales offer more consistent results for baking, and dutch ovens are wonderful for cooking.

If using a scale doesn’t appeal to you, for sourdough or any baking, consider reading this article to understand the benefits to baking with a scale.

There is not much between you and your first loaves of sourdough bread. Honestly, sourdough baking may seem intimidating, but if you can take that first step and simply try it, a whole new world of fun will be open to you, not to mention fresh, homemade, healthier bread.


Adding Inclusions to Sourdough Bread

Last updated October 8, 2024

Sourdough bread is delicious, but once you start playing with flavors and inclusions, a whole new world opens up. From cheddar jalapeño, pesto, or rosemary garlic, to double chocolate, lemon lavender or pumpkin, the options are endless.

The three main questions when it comes to inclusions are how much to add in, when to add them in, and how to add them in.

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How much to add?

There is a general rule of adding not more than 20% of your flour weight in inclusions.

This is a good place to start, but certainly not where you have to stay. There is also confusion on this rule, as some say it’s 20% of the flour weight while a few say it’s 20% of the total dough weight. I actually read the latter way when I first started adding inclusions, and I must say everything turned out fine, for adding more than I was “supposed” to. Really fine, actually.

The best way to find out how much you should add is to try it out in your dough and environment with the inclusions you have in mind. You can start with 20% of flour weight, and work form there. Too much really only exists when your loaf starts getting too flat (for your tastes) or the flavor is too strong.

I noticed from the moment I learned the 20% rule that what seemed like every. Single. Recipe for flavored sourdough included more than the 20% rule, and I was really wondering why have a rule at all if everyone is going to break it anyway?

Cheddar Jalapeño with different percentage inclusions

I’ve played around with different percentages and found that I like 30% of flour weight. Anything above 30%, and my loaves start to get flatter than I prefer. Lower than 30%, and I don’t get enough of the inclusions. I like to use Kirkland’s (Costco) all-purpose flour (protein 11.5%) because it is organic, but I could probably push the inclusion percentage a bit more if I were to use King Arthur’s Bread Flour (protein content 12.7%). Stronger flours and lower hydrations can help hold more inclusions.

As with anything sourdough, there are many variables that go into this conclusion, so you’re welcome to try out 30% but also don’t be surprised if that’s not your favorite. It depends on what the inclusions are, how strong your flour is, how well the loaves are fermented, etc.

For some visuals, I baked off 4 different loaves, all cheddar jalapeño, but each with a different percentage of inclusions. First I went all out and did 48% and 36%, then another batch with 35% and 30%. I love lots of cheese in my bread, so didn’t prefer to go below 30%.

First batch with 48% and 36%:

36% (left) and 48% (right)

36%

48%

Second batch with 35% and 30%:

Scoring to help differentiate between loaves: a wheat stalk with 3 spikes on each side and one with five on each side, for 35%. The 30% loaf had just one wheat stalk with three spikes.

35% (left) and 30% (right)

30% (left) and 35% (right)

35% (left) and 30% (right)

30% (left) and 35% (right)

It’s fairly easy to see the dough with the most inclusions is the flattest, while the dough with the least is the highest.


When to add in inclusions?

Inclusions can be added at 3 points, really. Which one you choose depends largely on what you are adding.

  1. They can be mixed in right when you mix your dough.

    This is best for smaller amounts or lighter inclusions, such as citrus zest, extracts, sugar, cocoa powder, etc. Heavier inclusions such as cheese chunks or even spices like cinnamon can have a negative effect on the bulk fermentation and it’s best to wait.

  2. They can be added during bulk fermentation (during stretch and folds or coil folds)

    I often do 4 sets of stretch and folds and find the sweet spot for adding in inclusions is the 2nd or 3rd set. This gives them time to get decently incorporated while still giving the dough a leg up in bulk fermentation. When I have too many things going and don’t get the inclusions added in until the 4th stretch and fold, the inclusions don’t get dispersed quite as well.

  3. They can be added in during the shaping.

    If you do a pre-shape, you can add them in then. If not, then you can add them in while you fold and roll your dough into its final shape, before placing it in its banneton.

For a small example of what it looks like to add inclusions in at different times and how that affects the final loaf, here are two loaves of pesto bread.

One has mixed the pesto in right at the beginning, with all the other ingredients.

The other, the pesto is laminated in instead of doing a 4th set of stretch and folds.

Lamination created a bit of a swirl effect, but it was harder to work with. Any time the oily pesto would pop through during shaping, the dough wouldn’t want to hold its shape, and it was difficult to shape it with the proper surface tension. You can see that I had difficulty shaping it by it’s slightly flatter profile, compared to the other loaf.

Mixing pesto in at the beginning creates a loaf with pesto evenly distributed, and was much easier to work with. In fact, the oil in the pesto getting mixed straight in even made the crumb a bit more tender, and was really lovely.

Taste overall was very similar, but for ease of making and the extra tender crumb, I would definitely just mix pesto straight in at the beginning rather than laminating.

While this is certainly not indicative of all inclusions, it’s a small insight into when and how you add inclusions can affect the final loaf.


How to Incorporate Inclusions?

How you incorporate inclusions depends on when you add them.

If making a chocolate espresso loaf, for example, you’d just mix in cocoa powder and espresso at the same time you’re kneading everything else together for your dough.

Otherwise, for chunkier things like cheese, fruit, etc, you can add them in during stretch and folds/coil folds as mentioned above or you can laminate them in.

To add during stretch and folds:

Start by sprinkling about a 1/4 of the inclusions over your dough in the bowl, then performing one stretch and fold/coil fold, stretching dough over inclusions and gently pressing dough into dough in other side to seal it shut. Sprinkle another 1/4 of inclusions on top and repeat a stretch and fold. Continue two more times until all inclusions have been added and each side has been stretched and folded.

If performing coil folds, it’s a similar idea, adding a little at a time while you pick up and coil your dough down, doing your best to get the inclusions evenly dispersed.

laminating dough

To add during lamination:

Lamination is a technique used in sourdough to strengthen the dough and is a great time to add in inclusions.

Spreading pesto over dough before folding back up

Start by lightly misting a clean workspace, then stretching the dough in as large and thin a rectangle as you can, being careful not to tear the dough. Evenly sprinkle inclusions over dough, then fold dough several times to get a tight and neat little ball again.

Lamination is my favorite way to get evenly distributed inclusions. I enjoy the lamination process, but it does take a bit extra work to clean a work space before and after rather than just adding the inclusions straight into the bowl with the dough for a stretch and fold. Lamination also isn’t as friendly when working with large batches of dough.

Tips for success when adding inclusions:

  • Play around with the percentage you like. It might not be the same for all inclusions!

  • If your loaf is going flat, you might have exaggerated with the amount of inclusions. Otherwise, rule out any other factors such as a weak starter, under or over fermented dough, lack of proper gluten development, lack of proper shaping, etc.

  • Using a stronger flour (higher protein content) can help to hold inclusions better.

  • Keep in mind that some inclusions will add moisture to your dough. You may want to lower dough hydration accordingly. I find great success with lowering hydration to under 70% when working with heavier and wetter inclusions such as cheese and fruit.

  • Some inclusions will affect the fermentation. Fruit and sugar will cause dough to ferment faster, so start checking your dough earlier than you normally would.

  • Try to keep inclusion chunks away from the outside of the dough when it bakes, otherwise they can burn. This is especially true of sugary things like fruit, dried fruit, chocolate chips, etc. You can help this by simply sticking any outside pieces back under and into the dough when doing the pre and/or final shape.

  • I would recommend against using silicone bread slings for sourdough with any kind of messy inclusions, and stick with parchment paper. The slings are designed to just barely cover the bottom of loaves, avoiding leaving any kind of indentations on the bread. However, the edges of the loaf then often come into contact with the dutch oven, which can bake cheese, fruit juices, etc. right onto your dutch oven. Not fun to clean. Using parchment paper will skip the mess and keep your dutch ovens cleaner.


Is an Autolysis Necessary for Sourdough Bread?

When I first started making sourdough loaves at home, I wanted to have as much success as possible right from the get go, so I started by using as many techniques and tricks as I could, rather than starting with a basic recipe and adding in techniques as needed. Spoiler alert, my bread wasn’t perfect, and I ended up working in the opposite direction. Rather than adding in more things to make my bread better, I started taking out certain steps and techniques one by one, to see if they were really serving their purpose, or just wasting my time.

One such technique was the autolyse method. Some of the people I respect most in the sourdough world use an autolysis. So I did, too. It wasn’t until one day, reading another respected sourdough person who went off on a bit of a rant, that they claimed that autolyse isn’t necessary, and in fact they do not recommend it. As they said, autolysis is a process developed and intended for breads made with commercial yeast, whose rise time is shorter and would benefit from an autolysis. Since sourdough bread has much longer fermentation times, autolysis isn’t as beneficial, or so this person was saying. I haven’t been able to locate any one reliable source that states anything as clearly as “autolysis was developed for commercial bread products and yeast, not so much sourdough”, but let’s run with it for the purpose of this mini experiment.

This intrigued me, and in a way, relieved me. I’ve heard many a baker explain and laud the praises of an autolysis, and yet, I secretly did not enjoy the autolysis process. It just felt…cumbersome. Adding on more time. Harder to mix the dough. More on that later.

King Arthur has an interesting article on using an autolysis, including experiments with both sourdough and instant yeast. Their article tends to give confirmation toward an autolysis being the most beneficial for commerical yeast over sourdough.

On the other hand, Maurizio of The Perfect Loaf does a similar experiment, but with his loaves showing a marked difference with autolyse. He also really gets more into the science of autolysis and explains it very well.

What is an autolysis?

Autolysis (noun) - Autolyse (verb)

Simply, an autolysis is simply mixing flour and water together and letting them sit for a period of time. The water helps to activate some of the enzymes in the flour, developing gluten, before adding other ingredients which can have an effect on gluten. Adding salt “tightens” the dough, and adding the starter commences fermentation. When just flour and water are combined, they are free to act in a way they otherwise wouldn’t when salt and starter are present.

While I had already been wanting to experiment and see what the difference might be between a loaf that got an autolysis and one that didn’t, I felt spurred into action when that knowledgeable sourdough person said they don’t recommend autolysis. Now I knew that, should I decide to not always faithfully autolyse, I wouldn’t be alone in that camp.

I’ve now done this experiment two separate times. In my first experiment the result didn’t feel overly conclusive to me, as there were several other factors going on that affected the fermentation and bake. It didn’t feel safe to say one way or another if the autolysis was the reason for the differing outcomes, but now that I’ve done this experiment twice, I feel a little safer in sharing my results.

Before we finally get into my little mini experiment, a couple of things to note:

  1. Sourdough is highly dependent on environment, ingredients, etc. so while I hope you find the results below interesting and informative, I would encourage you to do your own experiments for your own kitchen environment!

  2. The results below are tested solely on unbleached white flours. One of the benefits of autolysis is that it can help break down bran, so may show more benefits in breads that use some percentage of whole grain flours.


Autolyse vs No Autolyse #1

Method:

  • Both loaves were made with 100% Kirkland organic all-purpose flour, 71% hydration, 1.6% salt, 20% starter.

  • For the autolyse loaf, water and flour were mixed together and let rest for 1 hour before adding in salt and starter.

    For the No-autolyse loaf, all ingredients were mixed together.

  • Both loaves got 3 sets of stretch & folds

  • Autolyse loaf temped at 74°F, while No-autolyse loaf was at 77°F after the 1st set of stretch & fold and 75°F by the end of all stretch & folds.

  • Both loaves bulk fermented for 8 hours, pre-shaped for 35 minutes, then final shape for 35 minutes before into fridge for cold retard overnight.

  • Both loaves were baked in dutch ovens in oven preheated to 450°F for 35 minutes with lid on.

Observations:

Mixing the Flour and Water for the autolysis is not my favorite. I don’t enjoy using the autolysis technique when making bread for this reason. Unless working with high hydration doughs, which I don’t often go higher than 75%, it takes a few minutes to adequately mix the flour and water. Usually a bit of water is reserved from the autolysis to help mix in the salt after the autolysis is done. This means you’re mixing the dough without it having its full hydration, thus a stiffer dough. Then after autolyse, trying to mix just salt, a bit of water, and starter into an already formed and fairly stiff dough is not easy and may not get mixed in as well.

The Autolyse Loaf gets an advantage in gluten development. Because of the thorough mixing just mentioned above in order to incorporate all ingredients after the autolysis, the dough gets a leg up in gluten development. The No-autolyse loaf dough comes together easily and thus doesn’t require the same amount of mixing. During the stretch & folds this was quite apparent, with the Autolyse dough already showing good gluten-development and the No-autolyse loaf still being quite loose and elastic. By the end of the third stretch & fold set, however, the doughs felt quite similar; the No-autolyse loaf had mostly caught up.

Despite Bulk Fermentation starting at the same time for both doughs, they were not the same temperature. The reason for this is simple, and I really should’ve taken this into account for this experiment. I was using water that was slightly warmer than room temperature. When the bulk of the water is added for an autolysis, the time the dough is resting allows the water to cool to room temp, so by the time you add the starter and bulk ferment starts, everything is nicely at room temperature. Without doing an autolysis, the warmer water is added right in with the starter and all other ingredients, so the dough and bulk ferment temperature starts a bit warmer, although it will inevitably cool to room temperature over time. Because of this, my doughs had differing temperatures and thus different projected bulk ferment times.

Both loaves slightly over-fermented. Using the wisdom and work of Tom Cucuzza from the Sourdough Journey, I usually reference his chart for bulk fermentation times and rise %, although my starter does tend to ferment slightly faster than said chart. Despite my (even written down) projected bulk ferment times for each dough and times to start checking them, time got away from me and my three young children were needing me. By the time I was able to get to the dough it was already almost 2 hours after when I had originally planned to start checking the dough, and 1 hour after the realistic time of when it probably would have been ready. I pre-shaped both doughs at the same time since they were both already slightly over, with the No-autolyse being a little more over-fermented than the Autolyse dough.

Conclusion:

Despite some of the above noted variables, I loosely concluded that including an autolysis did not provide a noticeable difference in end product due to over-fermenting the dough. I decided to repeat this experiment, and specifically to get the doughs fermenting at the same temperature with a better targeted bulk ferment so it might be more obvious the effect of autolyse on the crumb rather than fermentation problems.


Autolyse vs. No-Autolyse Experiment #2

Autolyse on left, No-Autolyse on Right

Method:

  • Both loaves were made with 100% Kirkland organic all-purpose flour, 71% hydration, 1.6% salt, 20% starter.

  • For the autolyse loaf, water and flour were mixed together and let rest for 1 hour before adding in salt and starter.

    For the No-autolyse loaf, all ingredients were mixed together.

  • Both loaves received 2 sets of stretch & folds.

  • Autolyse Loaf temped at 77°F at beginning of bulk ferment, 75°F by end of second set of stretch & folds, then 76°F again at end of bulk ferment.

    No-Autolyse Loaf temped at 76°F at beginning of bulk ferment, 75°F by end of second set of stretch & folds, then 78°F by end of bulk ferment.

  • Both loaves bulk fermented for a total of 6 hours 10 minutes. Autolyse loaf had a rise of approximately 70% while the Autolyse loaf rose approximately 45-50%. (Very much eyeballing that, so take that with a grain of salt.)

  • Both loaves were pre-shaped and rested for 20 minutes, then final shape into bannetons, rested 10 minutes, and into fridge for cold retard overnight.

  • Both loaves were baked in dutch ovens in oven preheated to 450°F for 35 minutes with lid on.

Autolyse Loaf (wheat design to mimic an "A" for Autolyse, if you will

No-Autolyse Loaf, wheat design mimicking an "n"

Observations:

Intersetingly, temperatures varied quite a bit between the 2 loaves. Despite being very careful this time around to use all ingredients at room temperature, the temperature varied not only between the two loaves but also at different times. Sure, it’s late summer so my kitchen ends up a few degrees warmer by mid and end of day, but the two loaves did not reflect this consistently. This leaves me with more questions unanswered than answered.

Why did the Autolyse Loaf end up 1 degree warmer still at start of bulk ferment? You would think, if perhaps the water from the measuring cup I was using was 1 degree warmer, the 1 hour that the dough sits to autolyse would be more than enough to bring the dough to room temperature. And IF the water was 1 degree warmer, the No-Autolyse Loaf would have ended up the 1 degree warmer since it gets all of its water at the beginning of bulk ferment. Not to mention, I used a large measuring cup of water, measured out for the Autolyse Loaf, and that water also sat out on the counter for an hour. It doesn’t get any more room temperature than that!

Moreso, why did the No-Autolyse Loaf end up a few degrees warmer by end of bulk ferment? The two bowls were side by side, no drafts or sun or any other factor that I am aware of would have heated up or cooled down one dough over the other. The Autolyse Loaf maintained temperature at 76°F while the No-Autolyse Loaf increased temperature by 3 degrees during bulk ferment. Fascinating. Its rise clearly reflected the warmer temperature, as it was significantly puffier than the Autolyse Loaf.

Despite the difference in rise % between the two loaves, I ended bulk ferment at the same time. I was trying to maintain absolute consistency between these loaves in method, rather than guessing different bulk ferments, pulling them at different times based on rise, temperature, and time. The bulk ferments were intended to be identical after all, as the doughs were made identically save autolyse, but the temperature fluctuations threw me for a loop!

The crumb ended up quite similar. Noting the difference in rise % and temperature between the two doughs, they still ended up with a very similar crumb. Reading the crumb and trying to ignore that information, I would not have guessed that.

Crumbshot, No-Autolyse Loaf on left, Autolyse loaf on Right

The Autolyse Loaf ended up with a slightly wonky shape. While overall I don’t think it has too much bearing on this experiment, it still bears noting. As you can see in the overhead shot of the Autolyse Loaf both before and after baking, its shape is not symmetrical. This is possibly due to shaping error, or also likely, the linen lining the banneton was pressing into the dough on one side and left an impression. I tend to think this caused the rise during the cold retard to more easily expand on the side where the linen wasn’t holding it down.

Conclusion:

Four loaves of bread is hardly conclusive. Again, and always with sourdough, there are variabilities. My home kitchen is not temperature controlled, sometimes life and children pull me away, among so many other nuances. However, I still enjoyed this experiment and thought you might find it interesting as well, so I thought it still worth sharing.

Overall, I think I will find myself skipping autolysis more often now, but will still include it in some instances.

Happy baking, friends!


Using All-Purpose Flour vs. Bread Flour in Sourdough Bread

When it comes to making sourdough bread, does it matter if you’re using all-purpose flour or bread flour?

Simple answer: yes.

Longer answer. It depends.

It comes down to the protein content in bread, how much gluten can be developed, and how much hydration it can handle. Not all flours that parade under the name “all-purpose” are equal, nor are all flours that parade under the name “bread flour” equal.

It also depends on what you want out of your bread. Different flours will yield different results, but that doesn’t necessarily make them “bad.”

If any of the terms in this article feel foreign or you’ve just forgotten what they mean, check out this article on Sourdough Terminology, in alphabetical order.

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Protein content in flour

The main difference between flours of different names is their protein content. The higher the protein content, the stronger the flour, and usually the better for making bread. In the US we have basically five different categories of flour, as far as protein content goes:

  • Cake flour is the most delicate flour, usually with a protein content of 5-9%. It is made with soft red or white wheat of a fine grind.

  • Pastry flour is another more delicate flour with a lower protein content, 8-10%. This flour will give you flaky and tender pie crusts, cakes, etc. It is made from soft red or white wheat with a fine grind.

  • All-purpose flour is more middle of the road with a moderate protein content, anywhere from 8-12%. Can be used for the widest range of baked goods while still yielding good results, if not always the most tender crusts or highest rising breads. All-purpose is made from hard red wheat or a blend of hard and soft wheats.

  • Bread flour has a higher protein content, 11-13% and suitable for breads where you want higher rises and higher hydration levels. It is milled usually from hard spring wheat.

  • High-protein bread flour is bread flour with the highest protein contents, 13 or 14% or higher, best for pushing the limits for high hydration breads and open crumbs. It is milled from hard spring wheat.

There doesn’t seem to be an industry standard for flours, at least here in the States, as you can see with the percentage range for each kind of flour.

Even when using the same kind of flour from the same brand there can be noticeable discrepancies when baking bread with different bags of flour.

While variabilities exist across some brands, others are just as good at maintaining consistency. A good example of this would be King Arthur. Their protein content is proudly labeled on each bag of flour, tested, and trusted by consumers, myself included.

There is also an overlap with all-purpose and bread flour. Some all-purpose flours have a higher protein content than bread flour. At the end of the day, it’s more important to know what the protein content of the flour you’re using is than if it’s labeled as all-purpose or bread flour.

Another thing to consider is where in the world you are. For example, I’ve heard from some Canadians that their all-purpose flour is consistently around 13% or even higher in protein. That’s better than most bread flours here in the US! Let’s not even get into trying to buy flour in certain other countries, where they sell flour more by variety and grind than labeling it for its purpose. That’s how flour is sold in Italy, and I had a lot to learn about flour when I first moved there! I couldn’t even bake off a simple batch of chocolate chip cookies without first learning about soft and hard wheat and grind 00, etc…and in another language. If you find yourself in a similar situation, I wrote a couple articles on that to decipher the flours in Italy, and honestly, it’s not bad information to know if you’re really going to get into bread making and understanding how flours work beyond labels. This one will walk you down the flours that are sold in Italy, while this one walks you through the kinds of wheat grown.

Which to Use for Making Sourdough?

If you’ve been making sourdough bread and are happy with your results, then it probably doesn’t matter so much which one you’re using.

However, if you’re looking for a higher oven spring, a rounder belly, a stronger dough to hold inclusions, or wanting to play with higher hydration doughs, you should consider trying a flour with a higher protein content.

Loaf made with Bread Flour (L) and Loaf made with AP Flour (R)

The Side by side comparison

For a visual, I made two loaves of sourdough side by side, identical in every way, except for one uses all-purpose flour and the other uses bread flour.

The process went like this:

  • One loaf used exclusively Kirkland Signature Organic all-purpose flour (Costco brand, 11.5% protein content). The other loaf used King Arthur Bread Flour (12.7% protein content.)

  • 72% hydration, 20% starter, 1.6% salt

  • All ingredients were mixed well together for each loaf.

  • 30 minute rest, then 4 sets of stretch and folds every 30 minutes.

  • Bulk ferment lasted a total of 7 hours 20 minutes with dough temperature starting at 75°F / 24°C at the beginning and trending downwards at 73°F / 23°C by the end of stretch and folds.

  • Pre-shape for 20 minutes, then final shape before placing into fridge for retard overnight.

  • Next morning, baked loaves in oven preheated to 450°F / 232°C with dutch ovens for 35 minutes with lids on and steam.

As you can see in the photos, the end result immediately gives away that the bread flour loaf got a better oven spring, a bigger and smoother belly.

The AP loaf, while not ugly, is a little lower, a little flatter. If you look at the belly, you can see signs where the dough tore, spreading more sideways than fully upwards. The gluten just couldn’t be built up quite strong enough to get the same rise as the bread flour.

All-Purpose Flour

bread flour

All-purpose Flour

bread flour

As far as working with the dough, I could see similar tearing happening even from the beginning. While doing stretch and folds, the bread flour dough came together smoothly and beautifully. The AP dough, while still smooth, would show signs of micro tears as I was working with it. It’s possible the Kirkland organic AP would do better with a slightly lower hydration, but these loaves aren’t high hydration by any means, 72%.

All-purpose flour

Bread flour

The crumb is curiously different, with the bread flour loaf having a few larger bubbles. I liked the evenness of the AP crumb.

As far as these two loaves go in this mini experiment, the bottom line is they were both delicious loaves of homemade bread. It would be up to you to decide if you prefer the more aesthetic, higher rise of the bread flour, or if you put more importance on eating organic flour, for about the same price.

all-purpose flour

bread flour


Sourdough Terminology

Last Updated September 20, 2024

honey Oat Loaf

Sourdough is a whole world. It practically has its own language! This can sometimes lend beginners to feel like they’re foreigners visiting a new country.

Stretch and Folds?? Why are you exercising your dough? What is stitching? Now you’re taking your dough’s temperature? Does it have a fever?? If you’ve ever had similar thoughts, this article might just be your new Rick Steve’s guide to sourdough.

I was a dabbler in sourdough for years. I first started my own starter in 2017 (one of the actually 2 that my mom and I made that year is still the main one I use!), and went on to start different starters in America and Italy, 3 more times. I spent a crash course day apprenticing in a sourdough bakery with a wood burning oven in the States, made the sourdough bread in the bakery I worked at in Florence, and all along was regularly making sourdough pizza and focaccia at home and of course the myriad of discard recipes that goes along with keeping a starter happy with regular feedings.

I say “dabbled” because at no point did I feel I had mastered sourdough or was 100% well versed in sourdough science. I was learning new things constantly, and still am!

It wasn’t until recently that I decided to buckle down and do something that I hadn’t yet done: master a classic sourdough loaf in my own home kitchen. Of course, I had made some loaves occasionally, edible but nothing too pretty, and nothing so encouraging as to prompt me to continue and perfect it. I tried to replicate what we did in the bakery, but my home environment was different enough and I didn’t feel like putting the time into troubleshooting.

Whether you’re new to sourdough or just looking for a refresher, I jotted down all the sourdough terms I could think of to decode the process for you. Some are official terms, others are more of a casual sourdough lingo, and ever more are emerging in the online communities!

If you continue with sourdough, with or without this list you’ll probably end up coming across these terms, but this list is meant to make it so. much. easier. for you to get a leg up in the game. Ear up? Heh heh. Sorry. Sourdough pun.

Ok, sourdough terminology crash course here you go! In alphabetical order in case you want to use this like your new sourdough dictionary. :)

Quiz to follow. Just kidding.

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Acetic Acid

A byproduct of fermentation.

Active starter

Lively, refreshed starter, fed in the last 12 hours and that at least doubles in volume: ready to be used in a recipe. Also known as “mature starter” and “ripe starter”

Acidic Starter

Starter that is not fed often enough or not given enough to eat at feedings can go acidic.

An acidic starter is weak and smells extra sour. If not feeding regularly, be sure to keep starter in the refrigerator as it can start going acidic within just a day or two at room temperature. Starters also stay happier and less acidic when given a higher feeding ratio, such as 1:5:5 or 1:10:10.

See also “feeding ratio”

Aliquot Method

A method for determining when bulk ferment is done.

This is done by taking a small amount of dough to fill up half of a 2oz container (such as the small plastic condiment containers that often come with take-out) and waiting for the dough to roughly double. It’s much easier to tell when in a small container than in a large bowl of dough, and the main dough also stays undisturbed.

All-purpose flour (AP flour)

A blend of flours meant for multi-purpose uses. Usually a blend of soft and hard wheats for anything from cakes to bread.

Not all all-purpose floors are created equal, so it would be important to know the protein content to know how well it would perform in sourdough bread. King Arthur’s All-Purpose flour has a higher than usual protein content at 11.7%, thus making it a good choice for sourdough and other breads, but not so much for pie crusts.

Alveolar Structure

The more technical term for “crumb” when talking about the inside structure of baked bread.

Ash Content

The mineral content of flour, as measured by burning the flour down to ashes, and measuring what is left.

Flour is usually 1.5 - 2% ash. The more whole grain the flour, using more of the germ, bran, and endosperm, the higher in ash content. Yeast feeds on the minerals, so more fermentation activity will be seen with whole grain flours, or flours with higher ash content.

Autolyse

A step sometimes included in sourdough recipes to activate the enzymes in the flour. It usually involves just flour and water mixed together before any other ingredients are added. An autolyse usually lasts anywhere from 20 minutes to 12 hours.

Including an autolyse aids in proper hydration of the dough, developing gluten and extensibility without kneading, and optimizing flavor in the bread.

Baker’s Formula

The breakdown of a recipe’s ingredients into percentages.

This is always based on the flour’s weight, which is the “100%”. The other ingredients’ percentages are calculated based on the flour’s weight by taking the weight of an ingredient and dividing it by the weight of the flour. If a recipe calls for 500g of flour and 350g of water, divide 350 by 500, then multiply by 100 to get the water percentage. 350 / 500 = .7

.7 x 100 = 70

The water percentage in that recipe would be 70%.

Baker’s Schedule

An overview of the recipe according to time, often used in sourdough or recipes that take many hours/days to execute.

This is helpful to get a quick idea of a time frame for when you will want to start the recipe and when it will be done, rather than having to scan the whole recipe to figure out times and how they will work in your schedule. A sample baker’s schedule is given, so you know what it would look like to start that particular recipe at say, 8am. Sometimes 2 sample schedules are given, depending on if the recipe has different options for certain steps to be longer or shorter, or even just what it might look like to start the recipe at 8am, and another example of what it would look like to start it at 8pm.

Banneton

A French term for the special baskets for proofing bread, often made of natural cane from the rattan plant, although they also come in silicone and other materials.

Banneton is also known as a brotform or bread proofing basket.

Bassinage / Bassinage Method

Coming form the French term meaning “to bathe” or “drench in water”, this method adds water at different times during the process.

Some of the water is added in the initial mixing of the dough, the rest is added later during bulk fermentation when the gluten has had a chance to strengthen. This allows flour to handle more water than if it was added all at once, and can be helpful for making higher hydration doughs.

Bâtard

An oval shaped loaf. From the French word for bastard, since it is an unusual shape for bread, neither long like a baguette nor perfectly round like a boule.

Belly

The part of a baked sourdough loaf that rises and pushes through the scored part during baking. The “belly” stretches from the score to the “ear”, or where the ear would be.

A big, rounded belly is an indication of a good loaf: good oven spring, a proper score, and generally a good process starting from a healthy starter all the way through to baking.

Bench Scraper

A baker’s tool used for easily cutting and handling dough, cleaning counters, among other things.

Biga

A preferment used in many traditional Italian breads.

It’s not necessarily sourdough, active-dry or instant yeast are used. It has a lower hydration than a levain, closer to stiff starter.

Blisters

The small bubbles that form on surface of the crust of sourdough as it bakes.

Often seen as desirable (at least in the US), blisters are achieved through proper fermentation of the dough, a cold ferment, and utilization of steam while the bread is baking.

Bloom

The rise of the bread in the oven through the scores or slashes.

A loaf with a nice bloom must have oven spring with appropriate scoring. Without these, the loaf won’t be able to bloom and won’t have a nice belly or much height.

See also “oven spring” and “belly”

Boule

A round loaf. From a French word meaning “ball”.

Bread flour (BF)

Flour with a higher protein content, ideal for making bread and other baked goods that require development of gluten.

Bread sling

A piece of silicone or parchment used for easy transfer of loaves into a Dutch oven.

You can get them round or oval, depending on loaf shape. You can buy them or make your own.

Bread Proofing Basket

A basket used for proofing bread to help it keep its shape.

While any appropriately sized food-safe basket could be used, there are specific baskets made for this purpose. Bread proofing baskets are often called bannetons or brotforms.

Brotform

A German term for the special baskets for proofing bread, often made of natural cane from the rattan plant, although they also come in silicone and other materials.

Brotform is also known as a banneton or bread proofing basket.

Bulk Ferment

The long ferment/rise of dough that begins when levain/starter is added to the dough and ends when the dough is shaped.

Bulk Ferment Container

Any container that is big enough to hold the dough and give it room to double, while being able to perform stretch and folds or coil folds.

Bunny Profile

The profile of a loaf of sourdough when sliced that resembles a bunny, often indicative of a nicely fermented dough and a good oven spring.

Caddy Clasp

A shaping technique.

This technique to shape dough into its final shape was invented by Wayne Caddy and uses minimal movements, squeezing rather than rolling or folding, to shape the dough and achieve surface tension.

Challenger Pan

A cast iron pan designed for bread baking, similar in idea to a dutch oven.

Closed Crumb

The inside structure of the bread having mostly small or tiny holes.

See also “fine crumb” and “tight crumb”

Coil Folds

A special way of developing gluten in sourdough. Usually done by wetting hands, then pulling the dough upwards from the middle until the ends detach from the bowl, allowing gravity to pull the ends down, then folding the dough back down into the bowl. This is repeated a few times during each coil fold.

Commercial Yeast

Wild yeast that has been harvested into fast-acting yeast, including instant yeast, active-dry yeast, and fresh yeast.

Crumb

The texture and appearance of the inside of baked sourdough bread.

Crumb shot

The classic sourdough shot where the loaf gets sliced in half in the middle, then the bottoms get held together for a picture of the inside.

Danish Whisk

A type of whisk made with a coiled metal end, used especially for mixing bread doughs

Decorative score

Mostly shallow scores done purely for decorative design, often with a UFO lame. See also “score” and “expansion score”

Desired Dough Temperature (DDT)

The temperature you want your dough to be by the time you are done mixing and ready for fermentation.

In order to achieve the DDT, you’ll have to take into consideration each of the ingredients’ temperatures, as well as other factors such as the heat from friction of kneading dough. See also “Friction Factor”

Double edge razor blade

Razor blade with two sharp sides.

This is the kind needed for lames, but more deadly to wield by hand for scoring.

Dough dump

When dough is turned out or dumped out onto the counter after it has finished bulk fermenting, ready for weighing and shaping.

A dough that comes out cleanly from the bulk ferment container can be a sign of a properly fermented dough. If it’s too sticky, it can signal under or over fermented dough, or even just a more humid environment.

Doughpression

The depression one feels when a batch of sourdough bread goes wrong. Life loses its glimmer, one might feel more irritated towards those around them, and wonder if they should give up on baking altogether. An increase in time spent Googling “what went wrong” may ensue until the next, successful batch of bread dispels any doubt that was threatening your existence.

Term coined by Sarah Grunewald.

Dough Scraper

A flexible, usually plastic tool used to scrape dough out of bowls.

Dutch Oven

A cast iron pot with a lid used in sourdough baking to recreate the steam environment bread needs to expand properly.

Dutch ovens come in various sizes (measured in quarts) and can be round or oval, usually oven safe up to at least 450°F (check the brand’s recommendation), but be sure to check the handle on the lid is also oven safe up to the same temperature as the pot.

Dutch ovens can range in price from under $50 to over $400 for brands like Le Creuset. If you’re purchasing a dutch oven specifically for sourdough bread, I wouldn’t go for the higher end ones as they inevitably end up with speckles on them from baking at high heat repeatedly. I would also encourage you to consider darker colors since they don’t show stains as much.

Ear

The flap of dough that rises upward while baking. This happens only when the loaf has been both properly fermented and scored. Usually seen as the holy grail of signs of a good loaf. Basically, you have arrived.

Einkorn

Einkorn is a type of hulled wheat.

Einkorn is higher in nutrients than other kinds of wheat, and has a certain makeup than can lend it to be easier to digest and easier on the systems of those with gluten sensitivities.

This hull needs to be removed from the grain before it can be consumed, which makes for a lengthier processing time, and thus raising the cost to produce.

Enzyme

Simply put, enzymes are proteins.

There are two principal kinds present in flour: protease and amylase. These get to work essentially helping gluten to form while also creating an extensible (stretchy) dough.

Expansion score

The principal scoring done on a bread to control the rise and expansion of the bread, usually about 1/2” deep.

See also “score” and “decorative score”

Feeding ratio (i.e. 1:5:5)

The ratio of flour and water added to feed starter.

The first number is the starter, the second two flour and water. The flour and water are usually equal to keep the starter at 100% hydration (most common hydration). To feed a starter at the 1:5:5 ratio as above, you would take one part sourdough and feed it five parts water and five parts flour. For example, 20g of starter plus 100g of water and 100g of flour. You would then have 220g of starter.

Ferment/fermentation

“the chemical breakdown of a substance by bacteria”

If you simply leave bread dough to rise, this is often referred to as the ferment or fermentation.

It’s the good bacteria in yeast/sourdough starter feeding on the sugars in flour. As it eats it releases carbon dioxide. The gas gets stuck in the strong gluten strands of the dough, thus rising the bread. The longer dough ferments, the more flavor it will develop. This is why long fermentation times are highly sought after, up to 72 hours.

Fermentolysis/Fermentolyse

A slang term combining the words “ferment” and “autolyse” or “autolysis”.

Simply put, autolyse is just flour and water, where fermentolyse is water, flour, and starter.

This is where some confusion can be found, as these terms and their definitions are not consistently used. Some include salt, or rather ALL ingredients in their fermentolyse, others say fermentolyse is all ingredients except the salt. Once sourdough starter has been added, fermentation has begun, and really should be calculated as part of the bulk ferment time, but not all include a fermentolyse in their bulk ferment calculation.

Final Dough Temperature (FDT)

The temperature of your dough when you are done mixing it and right before bulk fermentation begins, taken with an instant read thermometer.

This temperature helps you to gauge how long your dough should bulk ferment for. Hopefully, your final dough temperature is the same as your desired dough temperature.

See also “Desired Dough Temperature”

Fine crumb

Bread dough with lots of small or tiny holes. Also known as tight crumb, dense crumb.

This can be a sign of under-fermented bread, or other things. While not usually seen as the most desirable crumb, some do prefer a fine crumb because it makes for better toast: no butter or jam falling through bigger holes.

Other times, a fine crumb is desired, as in bagels.

See also “closed crumb” and “tight crumb”

Float test

Putting a small amount of fed starter in a bowl of water to see if it floats. If it does, this indicates the starter is active enough and ready to be used in a recipe.

Flour mill

A machine for grinding wheat berries into flour.

Friction Factor

The variable of friction creating heat while mixing dough in a mixer or even by hand which in turn affects a dough’s final temperature.

When going for absolute consistency, you’ll want your dough rising at a certain temperature (Desired Dough Temperature or DDT, see above). There is an equation for this taking into consideration some of the most important factors, such as friction, ingredient temperature, and room temperature. Water’s temperature is the most easily manipulated, so the equation is used to figure out what temperature water to add to achieve the DDT.

Each mixer has a friction factor. In order to arrive at the DDT you’ll need to know the friction factor for your specific mixing machine. For example, using a Kitchen Aid 7 quart to knead bread dough for 3 minutes on speed 1, then 4 minutes on speed 2, will give you a friction factor of about 22°F - 24°F. Likewise, kneading dough by hand for about 8 minutes is a friction factor of about 6°F - 8°F.

Gliadin

One of the primary proteins found in wheat flour, along with glutenin. Gliadin is primarily responsible for the extendibility of dough, allowing bread to rise.

Gliadin appears to be one of the main environmental triggers for celiac disease.

See also “Glutenin”

Gluten

A naturally occurring protein in wheat and other flours that helps provide structure to bread. Without activating gluten by kneading and agitating the dough, dough can’t rise and bread will be very flat and gummy.

Glutenin

One of the major factions of proteins that makes up wheat flour, along with gliadin. Glutenin is responsible for the strength and elasticity of dough. 47% of the protein in wheat flour is Glutenin.

See also “Gliadin”

Heel

The end of a loaf of bread, mostly crust.

High-hydration dough

A dough that has a particularly high percentage of water in the recipe, usually 80% or higher.

High Protein Bread Flour

Any bread flour that has higher than 12.5% protein would be considered high-protein.

Hooch

A slang term for alcohol, sometimes used to refer to the brownish black that forms on the top of neglected starter or discard.

Alcohol is a by-product of fermentation, and sourdough starter is a ferment. When the bacteria in the starter has eaten everything up and is “hungry”, this brownish/black liquid, sometimes called hooch, forms on top as a way of protecting itself. It’s not harmful and can either be stirred back in or poured off, as long as there is no mold or other signs the starter is failing/died.

Hydration

The amount of water/liquids in bread dough.

The hydration in sourdough is usually referred to in percentages, which is based off of the flour’s weight in the recipe. The hydration of a dough affects many things, from how easy it is to handle to its crumb.

See Baker’s Formula

Inclusions

Dough add-ins, such as cheese, nuts, fruits, spices, etc.

It’s generally recommended that the weight of inclusions not exceed 20% of the total flour weight. Too many inclusions and they can weigh the dough down too much or affect the fermentation. For a loaf that calls for 500g of flour, that means you can safely add up to 100g of inclusions.

Internal Temperature

The internal temperature of bread or dough as read by a quick read thermometer.

Knead

The act of working or agitating dough to develop gluten.

Lame (Pronounced LAHM)

A tool for scoring bread.

See also “UFO Lame” and “Stick Lame”

Lamination

Spreading dough out very thinly.

This technique is used for other types of bread, including croissants. In sourdough this is to develop gluten and is also a way of adding in inclusions.

Lava rocks

Porous rocks from volcanoes, often artificial.

These can be used to help create steam in a home oven for sourdough. Watch out for lava rocks with chemicals and artificial dyes, you’ll want to either wash, boil, and bake them before using alongside food, or buy ones already deemed safe for food.

Le Creuset

A high end brand of enameled cast iron cookware and kitchenware.

Their prices can be hefty, but the pieces will last a lifetime and beyond, and can sometimes be found on sale or for a good price at their outlet store or even HomeGoods!

Levain

Levain is an offshoot of sourdough starter: Some starter combined with flour and water.

Levain and sourdough starter are terms often used interchangeably. Technically, they are not the same, and using the terms interchangeably can create some confusion. But with careful attention, if you look at the context you can often see what a recipe intends, if they actually mean starter or if it’s truly a Levain that is being made.

Also not to be confused with feeding starter; levain is made from starter and is very much like a feeding, but the difference is that all of the levain will be added into dough and eventually baked. Starter is maintained and while part is taken to make things, such as a levain, the main starter always remains.

Lievito madre

Italian for “mother yeast” and what Italians call sourdough.

Any Italian bakery, pizzeria, or restaurant that wants to advertise that they use or make sourdough, will mention “lievito madre” and often the length of fermentation, 24, 36, 72hr, etc.

Maillard reaction

This is the browning action that happens to certain baked goods when cooked at high heat; roasting, baking, searing, etc.

It not only gives color but a distinct flavor. It’s an organic chemical reaction when amino acids and reducing sugars react to create melanoidins.

Examples of the Maillard reaction in action would be the browned edges of pepperoni on a pizza, the browned crust on bread, even that browned toasty flavor from the beans of your favorite morning beverage: coffee.

Mature starter

A well-developed, established, and active starter, usually fed in the last 12 hours and ready to be used in a recipe.

See also “active starter” and “ripe starter”

Medium-strength bread flour

A flour with a protein content generally between 11-12%.

Flour in stores won’t be labeled as “medium strength bread flour”, but if you know what protein percentage you’re looking for, you should be able to find that information hopefully on the brand’s website if not on the package. A good and reliable example would be King Arthur’s all-purpose flour which is 11.7% protein and is clearly marked on their bags of flour.

Open Crumb

The inside structure of a sourdough loaf with big, open holes evenly dispersed throughout the bread.

Open Bake

Baking bread in an oven without being inside a dutch oven or similar vessel.

Oven-spring

The amount a loaf “springs” up or rises in the oven.

Over-fermented

Dough that has risen or fermented for too long.

Over-fermenting can be used to talk about the dough rising too much at any point, but technically over-ferment refers to the first rise, or bulk ferment. See also “over-proofed”

Signs of over-fermenting include dough that has risen more than double during bulk ferment and dough that becomes sticky and hard to work with.

The poke test during bulk fermentation is debated on whether it’s accurate or not.

Over-proofed

Dough that has fermented/proofed too long.

Over-proofed dough is dough that has fermented too long in its final shape (i.e. in a banneton), but over-proofed and over-fermented are sometimes used interchangeably. See also “over-fermented”

Signs of over-proofing include a poke test where the indent doesn’t fill back in, a loaf that deflates when dumped out of a banneton, deflates or spreads when scored, sticky dough that catches the lame, and a less than desirable oven spring.

Parchment paper

Also known as baking paper, parchment paper is a non-stick and grease-proof paper with many purposes in the kitchen. It is made up of silicone coated cellulose and is oven safe up to 420°F - 450°F / 216°C - 232°C, depending on the brand.

Parchment paper comes precut in various sizes or in rolls, white (bleached) or brown (unbleached).

Pâté Fermentée

French for “fermented dough”, pâté fermentée is another kind of preferment.

When making sourdough, at the end of the bulk ferment a third of the dough is reserved to leaven the next batch of bread. When the next batch is done bulk fermenting, again a third would be reserved in the fridge for up to 3 days until the next batch needs to be leavened.

Poke test

A test to determine if dough is done proofing and ready to bake.

Simply poke your finger into the dough, then remove it. If the dough springs back immediately, the dough is under-proofed. If the dough springs back slowly and doesn’t quite fill in completely, the dough is nicely proofed and ready for baking. If the dough doesn’t spring back at all or just a tiny bit, it is over-proofed and should be baked immediately.

How far should you poke your finger in? Anywhere between 1/4” and 1”, depending on who you ask. I personally feel 1” is too far. Since we don’t usually have a ruler handy for a poke test, poking a finger in as deep as the nail bed is probably my favorite practical bit of advice on the subject. To prevent your finger from sticking, wet or flour it before poking.

The poke test’s reliability is debatable when dough is cold, or if using to determine if bulk ferment is done.

Poolish

A French preferment consisting of flour, water, and a small bit of commercial yeast.

It’s usually equal parts flour and water (100% hydration) and left to ferment for 12-18 hours or so before being used in a recipe. It helps to create depth of flavor in breads but is not quite as tangy or sour as sourdough bread.

Pre-shape

A gentle shape given to dough after bulk ferment and before final shaping. The dough sits in this “pre-shape” usually just 20-30 minutes before the final shaping.

This pre-shape helps the dough to hold its shape better when it is actually shaped.

Proof

The ferment or rise of dough in its final shape before baking.

Pullman Loaf Pan

A bread/loaf pan with a lid, for making square bread, Texas toast, Pain de Mie, also known as Pullman Bread, and more.

Ripe starter

Bubbly, ready to use starter that has been fed in the last 12 hours. See also “active starter” and “mature starter”

Retard

A long, slow ferment in the fridge, often overnight or longer.

Retard means “to slow down” in French, as the fermentation process gets slowed down in the colder temperature.

Rice flour

Flour made from rice; this is a popular choice for lining bannetons and liner cloths to keep the dough from sticking.

Rubaud Method

A method for hand-mixing sourdough. This involves cupping one hand, sliding it under the dough in a bowl, and lifting and stretching it up before releasing. This is repeated any times moving your hand around the bowl to evenly work all the dough. This helps to build gluten while also aerating the dough.

Rye flour

One of the many flours chosen to add depth of flavor to loaves. Rye flour is nutritious and has a lower gluten content than wheat flour.

Rye flour comes in a few main varieties, depending on how much flavor and nutrition you’re going for. Just like regular wheat, the more of the rye kernel that is used, the more whole grain and flavorful it will be. Kernels are made up of the endosperm, the bran, and the germ.

White Rye, or Light Rye uses only the starchy endosperm part of the kernel, resulting in the lightest flavor.

Medium Rye contains bran which gives it a slightly darker color and a more robust flavor.

Dark Rye is the darkest, most pungent of the rye flours. It’s also the heaviest, and can weigh down your baked goods making them dense. However, dark rye can be an inconsistent product across different producers. According to King Arthur, some producers sift out some of the bran. or don’t use as much of the endosperm.

Pumpernickel flour is the one to get if you’re looking for a truly whole grain (endosperm, bran, and germ) rye flour. Pumpernickel is also known as “rye meal” or “whole rye flour”.

Scale/scaling

Weighing ingredients on a scale, or converting a recipe to yield more or less.

Score/scoring

Slicing bread about 1/2” or so deep to help control the rise.

This is best done with a sharp razor blade such as on a lame, but a sharp knife can also be used in a pinch.

Seam

After shaping dough into its final form, there will inevitably be a seam. The seam always ends up on the bottom of the loaf where you can’t see it. If using a normal loaf pan, the seam side goes down. If using a banneton to proof dough, the seam side always goes up since the bread will be flipped out of the banneton before baking.

Single edged razor blade

A razor blade with one sharp edge; the opposite edge is dull and made for holding.

This kind of razor blade cannot be used on a lame, but can be useful if you don’t have a lame and would like a safer option for hand scoring dough.

Sourdough

Bread made with natural yeast. No commercial yeast is needed.

This is the original and most ancient way of making bread. Commercial yeast was first sold in the 1800’s and greatly sped up the bread making process from a multi-day process to simply a multi-hour process. Now commercial yeast is the most prevalent kind of yeast in the USA. See also “commercial yeast” and “wild yeast”.

Sourdough Discard

The portion of sourdough starter that you discard before feeding it.

Sourdough starter needs regular feedings to stay active and bubbly. Before feeding, a portion is usually “discarded” or put aside so as to keep the amount of sourdough starter at a manageable quantity.

Sponge

An umbrella term for preferments.

Biga, poolish, and Levain, for example, are all preferments.

Sprouted flour

Wheat berries that are left to sprout before being milled into flour.

Sprouted flour is sometimes selected for sourdough and bread making because of its nutritious properties. Sprouting softens the wheat berry and makes it easier to digest.

Spurtle

A long, thin wooden stir stick.

Traditionally used in Scottish cooking of porridge and other liquidy foods, a spurtle works wonderfully for stirring sourdough starter and reaching into tall containers.

Starter

The natural yeast mixture that is maintained and fed with simply water and flour. A bit is used to naturally leaven bread, and the rest is kept on the counter or fridge with regular feedings and discards to keep it active and healthy.

See also “sourdough starter”

Stick Lame

A tool made for scoring bread.

A stick lame consists of a long handle with a metal end which holds a double-edged razor blade at a curved angle, allowing the bread to be scored in such a way as to get an ear.

Stiff starter

A sourdough starter that has a lower hydration, and thus, is stiffer.

Stitch/stitching

Once dough has been placed upside down (seam side up) in a banneton, the dough is often pinched on one side and stretched over to the other side and pressed down to stick. This is done multiple times all the way down a bâtard shape on both sides or around for a round boule, in a manner similar to stitching.

Stitching helps to create surface tension for a loaf.

Stretch and Fold

A gentle sourdough kneading method. Usually 2-4 sets of stretch and folds are performed to help develop gluten, often 30 minutes apart.

When dough has been mixed and is resting in a bowl/bulk ferment container, one edge of the dough is taken and stretched up as far as it can go without ripping, before being folded down to the opposite side. The opposite side is then taken and stretched and folded over. Finally, the opposite two sides are stretched and folded over as well.

In all, 4 stretch and folds at N, S, E, W will be performed to be considered one set of stretch and folds.

Surface tension

The taught, tight surface of dough in its final shape.

Surface tension is created by using certain techniques of rolling, dragging, sliding, and stitching the dough as and after you shape it.

Surface tension is important for helping loaves to rise upward and not outward.

Sweet stiff starter

Sourdough starter that has a lower hydration, and also with some sugar added to it to help reduce the acidity of the starter. It is used primarily in sweet breads.

See also “stiff starter”

Temperature method

Taking the temperature of dough at key moments to understand and time the sourdough process.

Dough temperature is often taken at the beginning of bulk ferment, at each stretch and fold, sometimes during the remainder of bulk ferment to help determine how fast the dough is fermenting and how long bulk ferment should last.

Tight crumb

Bread with small or tiny air holes, rather than large or airy holes.

While not the most desirable crumb structure for classic sourdough bread, some prefer this for its ability to hold jam, butter, etc. better.

See also “closed crumb”

Tramontina

A brand offering enameled cast-iron bakeware such as Dutch ovens frequently used for sourdough baking. A more affordable option than some.

Tunneling

The large holes seen in under-fermented bread.

Often in sourdough, dough that is not too severely under-proofed will take on s pyramidal shape with a mostly tight crumb that has large holes running through it, or tunneling.

UFO Lame

A round lame used for scoring smaller and more intricate designs.

Under-proofed

Bread that was not given enough time to ferment or rise, often manifesting in a loaf that doesn’t obtain full height with a dense, tighter crumb, or a tight crumb with large holes called tunneling.

Wild Yeast

As opposed to commercial yeast which you would buy from the store, wild yeast comes from the environment and is found virtually everywhere.

If you give wild yeast food, it will grow. This is how sourdough starter is made. When you mix food (flour) with water (a vessel), the wild yeast will eventually form and grow into what we know as a sourdough starter. Continue to feed it, and it will continue to be happy and grow.

Wild yeast differs around the world, which is why, no matter where you get your starter from or where you take it, it will eventually turn into the wild yeast native to your location. There is a reason why San Francisco sourdough has such a unique flavor that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world!

Windowpane test

A test to determine if sufficient gluten has been developed in bread dough.

Take a small piece of dough with wet or floured fingers and stretch into a thin square. If you’re able to stretch it thin enough to let light through in a windowpane-esque way, gluten has been well developed and passes the test. If it rips before stretching sufficiently, not enough gluten has been developed.


New Sourdough Series

Welcome to the brand new, sparkly sourdough series!

This little corner of Jennyblogs will feature all things sourdough, or sourdoughnt…ahem. Sourdough recipes, sourdough experiments, tips and tricks, discard recipes, and very possibly more than you ever wanted to know about sourdough.

Worry not, there will still be plenty of dinner recipes, desserts, and all of my other favorite recipes sprinkled with some Italy content coming your way! Sourdough will just be one more element on here.

This blog is an ever-evolving platform. What started as a personal way to share updates on life and ministry when I first moved to Italy in 2016, with occasional dessert recipes, turned into mostly dessert recipes. Then came in more savory and dinner recipes, then Italy content. 2019 was around the time I started to get a little more serious about blogging, getting more intentional about what I was doing. I had to start editing my writing realizing, hey, it’s not just my family and friends reading this anymore, but thousands of strangers. Inevitably, once I became a mamma some mom content started to sneak in (although I have stayed true to my word and not turned this into a full blown mom blog! Although I totally see the temptation there, baby thoughts take over a tired and completely-in-love mama’s brain), it stayed primarily recipes with some Italy content. Now, the next addition begins, with some sourdough content.

I started dabbling in sourdough back in 2017. I started my own starter for the fun of it and went from there. I didn’t get too serious about it until more recently. Years ago I spent a day apprenticing at an artisan sourdough bakery, then started working with it at a bakery I worked at in Florence, both of which piqued my interest even more and made me appreciate how much more there was to learn. These last several months I have been intensively working with sourdough, from classic loaves to cinnamon rolls, most days of the week; making, taking notes, studying, troubleshooting, experimenting, in the moments between wiping the toddler’s sticky fingers, nursing the baby, answering the preschooler’s questions, and all the other demands of life. As with any craft you’re learning to master, there have been frustrating moments, but there have also been the moments of immense satisfaction of seeing hard work come to fruition. While I do not yet confess to be a sourdough master, I am learning, learning, learning, and I would be honored if you’d join me in this sourdough journey. I’m excited, and hope that some of these articles, recipes, and resources will help make sourdough more enjoyable and attainable for more people!

Whether you’re still entirely unsure of what sourdough exactly is or you’ve already made hundreds of loaves, I hope you’ll stick around for some sourdough content!

Some sourdough recipes to get you started, with so many more to come!

24 Hour Sourdough Pizza Dough

Last Updated: June 5, 2024

Sourdough pizza!

My absolute favorite pizza dough recipe, and definitely worth the time to plan a day (or 2) ahead. At first glance the recipe might seem complicated (it is a 2 day recipe, after all), but it really is very simple, with no more than 1-2 minutes of kneading involved. With sourdough, time is your friend and does most of the work for you.

If you’ve ever made homemade pizza dough and wondered why it’s “good” but missing out on that chewy, wonderful crust texture that you get from the best pizzerias, this recipe will have you wondering no more. It’s chewy and flavorful and will have you whipping pizzas out of your home oven that taste about as close to your Italian vacation as can be possible! Which leads me to ask…

How’s it going? With your sourdough starter, I mean.

Margherita Pizza

If you weren’t already dabbling in sourdough before 2020, everyone and their brother started a sourdough starter during all of the stay-home business and many varying lockdowns, ammiright?

Did your starter get off to success, or did it dwindle, never making it to its full, goopy, bubbly glory? Perhaps it’s sitting, forgotten, in the back of your fridge. Perhaps you’re a sourdough baking fiend, whipping out the loaves and baguettes like nobody’s business.

Or, just maybe, you’re like me, your friendly sourdough-user-but-not-an-expert, keeping the starter alive and using it occasionally but mostly as discard to flavor/boost other recipes. If this sounds familiar, then this recipe is perfect for you. Not too hard, I’ll try not to give you too much theory (yes, I do know some!), and, as long as you have a not-dead starter, basically foolproof.

Not convinced yet? This is the single pizza recipe I make most, by far, even though it takes 24+ hours, because it is that good and that simple. Actually, if I make pizza, I don’t even think about which crust I should make. I just make this one. Day 1 is really just stirring 3 ingredients together. That’s it.

Some Sourdough Tips

Did I mention I have experience but am not an expert on sourdough? Yes, so what follows is my experience and some of the most helpful sourdough tips I’ve learned over the past 5 years dabbling, that may help you too.

master of disguise: Arugula Pizza

Keep in mind that sourdough is highly individual. Meaning, the time you give it, how active it is, the temperature of your house, types of flour you use, etc. will all affect your starter and your end product. For example, I’ve started sourdough starter on two separate continents with results that varied quite a bit. I’ve made this recipe several times with both my Italian and American starter. To be honest I always had more success with my American starter, it feels invincible where my Italian one always needed some tender care and coaxing. But maybe I subconsciously gave my Italian starter too much free reign thinking that it ought to know what to do, being Italian in the land of pizza, after all. Anyway, here goes nothing:

  1. When making sourdough breads, most recipes will assume or instruct you to have an active/ripe (freshly fed) starter. This means you probably fed your starter at least once the day before starting the recipe, and you’re not just taking your starter straight out of the fridge to start the recipe. Recipes that use NOT refreshed starters will often call themselves discard this or discard that.

    I USUALLY use my starter straight out of the fridge for this recipe. In fact, there may be a note somewhere with this recipe that says you can use your starter straight out of the fridge, making this not such a guilty confession. That’s another great thing about this recipe. And it turns out great. I will mention, though, that sometimes my Italian starter would yield a less fluffy crust, and I found more success if it was recently refreshed.

  2. I once read that it’s actually very hard to kill a (well-established) sourdough starter if it’s kept in the fridge. This relieved a great amount of guilt for me, as, if more than 1 week passed since I had last fed my starter, I had this constant nagging that every day more that passed my starter was dying and suffering. And while the sourdough starters of one person (me) are hardly a vast study, I would say this has turned out true. Even 1 month+ in the fridge and after just one feed it bounced back and was lively. Nice.

  3. Keep in mind the word “recipe” when associated with “sourdough” should be used loosely. Formula might be a better word. The beauty, and frustrating part of sourdough is that it IS so variable. If something isn’t going right, in this recipe or any other with sourdough, go back to your starter, your little living friend. My two biggest mistakes with sourdough starter have been not giving a new starter enough time to get established, and not giving the dough enough time to rise/proof. It can feel strange to let dough rise for so many hours rather than the typical 1-2 hours with instant yeast if that’s what you’re used to!

While the following recipe uses both volume and weight measurements as is usual on this blog, I would encourage you in all baking but especially with sourdough to use a scale. It makes everything easier, creates less dishes to wash, and is quicker and more accurate. When you’re working with sourdough it really does make most sense to use a scale. Scales are not expensive and you don’t need a top of the line one to do the job! You can get a handy little one for as little as $9.99 on Amazon.

If you’re wanting to get more serious about your baking and invest in a slightly larger scale, this is the one I just started using, and am really liking it so far. It’s very similar to the type of scale I would use when working at bakeries or La Pasta Fresca in Florence.

The Difference between “Sourdough Starter” and “Levain”

If these two terms confuse you, hopefully this explanation will help you.

Sourdough starter is your flour and water mixture that you keep in the fridge and feed.

Levain refers to the usually first part of a sourdough recipe where you add sourdough starter with more flour and water, that will end up as part of your bread product. Another way you can think of it, the levain is built from the starter and will always end up baked.

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Recipe lightly adapted from Ken Forkish’s “The Elements of Pizza”


24+hr Levain Pizza Dough

Makes 2 large, 3 medium, or 5 small pizzas

Ingredients:

Day 1

  • 50g (2 Tbsp + 1 tsp) sourdough starter

  • 100g (1/3 cup + 4 tsp) water

  • 100g (3/4 cup + 2 tsp) bread flour or all-purpose flour

Day 2

  • 225g (scant 1 cup) water

  • 14g (2 1/2 tsp) salt

  • 250g (All of the levain [sourdough]) from day 1

  • 375g (scant 3 cups) all-purpose flour

Directions:

Day 1

  1. The evening before you intend to make pizzas, mix together in a medium bowl the sourdough starter, warm (100°F / 38°C) water, and flour.

  2. Cover the bowl and let it sit out on the countertop overnight.

Day 2

  1. Roughly 12 hours later, your starter from the day before should be bubbly, goopy, and active.

  2. Pour warm (90-95°F / 32°-38°C) water into a large bowl, add salt, and stir until salt has dissolved.

  3. Mix in all of the levain started the previous evening; it may not completely mix in, that’s ok. You can use a spoon or your hand with a “pincer” like motion, like a crab, helping the levain to break up into the water.

  4. Add flour and stir, with a spoon or by hand, just until dough forms into a mostly uniform mass. Continue for about 30 seconds, a shaggy looking dough ball is ok. Target dough temperature is 80°F / 27°C.

  5. Let dough rest for 20 minutes.

  6. Knead dough for 30 seconds - 1 minute on a lightly floured surface, dough should become very smooth and uniform. Shape into a ball and place seam side down into a lightly greased bowl; cover.

  7. Let dough rest at room temperature for about 3 hours.

  8. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and shape into desired number of balls (2 for larger pizzas, 3 for medium, or 5 for small), using a scale for consistency. Place shaped dough balls seam side down onto a lightly floured sheet tray, parchment paper, or silpat, keeping space between. Lightly flour tops and cover with plastic wrap; let rest for another 5 hours.

    After the 5 hours, the dough balls can either be refrigerated and used to make pizzas the next day (day 3), or continue and make pizzas!

Make Pizzas

  1. If you have a pizza stone, place it on the middle rack of your oven before preheating.

  2. Preheat oven to 550°F / 288°C or the max of your oven.

  3. Roll with a rolling pin or toss a pizza dough ball to desired size, using lightly floured or oiled hands. Place dough round on parchment paper to easily transfer on and off the pizza stone.

  4. Bake about 5-7 minutes for small pizzas, 6-9 for medium, or 8-12 for large pizzas, using your eyes to test for readiness more than time.

Jenny’s Notes:

  • While I include the original temperature notes for ingredients from Ken Forkish’s original recipe, I will confess I don’t always take the time to measure or check them as I make this often enough in roughly the same environment/temperature house that I just go with it. It’s very educational to do so with new recipes and in new environments, and helps when sharing a sourdough recipe to keep the recipe as consistent as possible, keeping some of the factors (like temperature) the same.

  • The 8 hour rise time on day 2 as a mass, then as dough balls, (steps 7 and 8) doesn’t have to be precise, if you need to shape the dough after 2 hours, that’s perfectly fine, you just want a total time of about 8 hours, so you could rest the dough for 2 hours, shape, then rest for 6 hours.

  • If you refrigerate your dough and use it to make pizzas on what would be day 3, take dough out of the fridge about an hour before making/baking pizzas. In a pinch I’ve used the dough straight out of the fridge, but the dough will rise better and be fluffier if you don’t go cold turkey, heh.

  • If you’ve never used your oven at its maximum temperature and think that’s crazy, just keep in mind that pizzas made in wood burning pizza ovens like they are in Italy, are baked at temperatures of up to 900°F / 485°C, so your home oven at its max isn’t even going to get near the burst of heat that make the best pizzas!

24 Hour Levain Pizza Dough
Yield 3-5 pizzas
Author
Prep time
35 Min
Cook time
25 Min
Inactive time
20 H & 20 M
Total time
21 H & 20 M

24 Hour Levain Pizza Dough

Homemade sourdough pizza crust in just 24 hours, with time doing most of the work for you!

Ingredients

Day 1
Day 2

Instructions

Day 1
  1. The evening before you intend to make pizzas, mix together in a medium bowl the sourdough starter, warm (100°F / 38°C) water, and flour.
  2. Cover the bowl and let it sit out on the countertop overnight.
Day 2
  1. Roughly 12 hours later, your starter from the day before should be bubbly, goopy, and active.
  2. Pour warm (90-95°F / 32°-38°C) water into a large bowl, add salt, and stir until salt has dissolved.
  3. Mix in all of the levain started the previous evening; it may not completely mix in, that’s ok. You can use a spoon or your hand with a “pincer” like motion, like a crab, helping the levain to break up into the water.
  4. Add flour and stir, with a spoon or by hand, just until dough forms into a mostly uniform mass. Continue for about 30 seconds, a shaggy looking dough ball is ok. Target dough temperature is 80°F / 27°C.
  5. Let dough rest for 20 minutes.
  6. Knead dough for 30 seconds - 1 minute on a lightly floured surface, dough should become very smooth and uniform. Shape into a ball and place seam side down into a lightly greased bowl; cover.
  7. Let dough rest at room temperature for about 3 hours.
  8. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and shape into desired number of balls (2 for larger pizzas, 3 for medium, or 5 for small), using a scale for consistency. Place shaped dough balls seam side down onto a lightly floured sheet tray, parchment paper, or silpat, keeping space between. Lightly flour tops and cover with plastic wrap; let rest for another 5 hours.
  9. After the 5 hours, the dough balls can either be refrigerated and used to make pizzas the next day (day 3), or continue and make pizzas!
Make Pizzas
  1. If you have a pizza stone, place it on the middle rack of your oven before preheating oven.
  2. Preheat oven to 550°F / 288°C or the max of your oven.
  3. Roll with a rolling pin or toss a pizza dough ball to desired size, using lightly floured hands. Place dough round on parchment paper to easily transfer on and off the pizza stone.
  4. Bake about 5-7 minutes for small pizzas, 6-9 for medium, or 8-12 for large pizzas, using your eyes to test for readiness more than time.

Notes

  • While I include the original temperature notes for ingredients from Ken Forkish’s original recipe, I will confess I don’t always take the time to measure or check them as I make this often enough in roughly the same environment/temperature house that I just go with it. It’s very educational to do so with new recipes and in new environments, and helps when sharing a sourdough recipe to keep the recipe as consistent as possible, keeping some of the factors (like temperature) the same.
  • The 8 hour rise time on day 2 as a mass, then as dough balls, (steps 7 and 8) doesn’t have to be precise, if you need to shape the dough after 2 hours, that’s perfectly fine, you just want a total time of about 8 hours, so you could rest the dough for 2 hours, shape, then rest for 6 hours.
  • If you refrigerate your dough and use it to make pizzas on what would be day 3, take dough out of the fridge about an hour before making/baking pizzas. In a pinch I’ve used the dough straight out of the fridge, but the dough will rise better and be fluffier if you don’t go cold turkey, heh.
  • If you’ve never used your oven at its maximum temperature and think that’s crazy, just keep in mind that pizzas made in wood burning pizza ovens like they are in Italy, are baked at temperatures of up to 900°F / 485°C, so your home oven at its max isn’t even going to get near the burst of heat that make the best pizzas!


Nutrition Facts

Calories

591.5

Fat

1.59 g

Sat. Fat

0.24 g

Carbs

124.01 g

Fiber

4.39 g

Net carbs

119.62 g

Sugar

0.43 g

Protein

16.78 g

Sodium

1817.54 mg

Cholesterol

0 mg

Nutritional information is approximate. Based on 1 pizza dough ball if you make 3 medium sized dough balls.

pizza dough, levain, sourdough starter, homemade pizza, sourdough pizza
dinner
Italian, American
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